Woodpeckers (for Plans, see links below)

In addition to the flicker and yellow-bellied sapsucker, there are 5 other "woodpeckers" found in Pennsylvania. All of these birds are capable of "building" their own houses. These natural houses are potentially of value to other cavity using birds and mammals that cannot excavate their own cavities. In general, therefore, building houses specifically for woodpeckers is not recommended. However, in a woodlot that has been thinned and sanitized leaving only sound, live trees, there is a potential for providing woodpeckers with housing. Yet even this potential is compromised if there are no nearby sources of insects for food: e.g.,streambanks, clearing edges, ground litter and fallen logs.

The "downy" is Pennsylvania's most common woodpecker. It will use the same-sized box as the tufted titmouse (Plan 1 & Plan 2). The entrance hole should be 1 1/4 inches in diameter.

For the following species, entrance hole diameters are in parentheses. The red-headed (2"), red-bellied (2 1/4"), hairy (1 5/8") and pileated (4" Plan 15) woodpeckers will use flicker (Plan 9) and kestrel (Plan 14) boxes. Place boxes near the edges of woodland clearings that have a nearby source of water. As described for the flicker, fill boxes with sawdust to discourage use by other birds.

Note: Placing boxes for woodpeckers should he considered as experimental. For this reason, the circumstances (nature of surrounding habitat, etc.) attendant the use of any box by a woodpecker should be brought to the attention of the: "PA Game Commission's Cavity Nester Cooperator Program," 2001 Elmerton Avenue, Harrisburg, PA 17110-9797.

Mallard (Plan 21)

The mallard nest cylinder illustrated in (Plan 21) can be used to encourage mallards to nest in safer locations.

Approximately 35 percent of this type nest are used annually at the Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area. Nearly 90 percent of the nests used result in successful hatches. In farm ponds where cattle have access to the shoreline, use of this nesting structure has approached 100 percent.

To make this device requires a seven foot piece of fencing wire thirty-six inches wide. Several types of wire will work, but the recommended type is welded, plastic coated garden fencing with a 2" x 2 1/2" mesh. A 50 ft. roll will make seven nests. Also needed is a supply of mixed hay such as a timothy/orchard grass mixture. Sudan grass also works well. Small grain straw is a poor choice because it doesn't last very long.

Cut seven feet of fencing off the roll of wire and place on a flat hard surface. Measure three feet in from one end and mark the wire. Roll the end of the three foot section of wire to the mark which results in a nesting cylinder 36 inches long by 12 inches in diameter. Place approximately 2 inches of hay over the remaining four feet of fencing. Continue rolling the wire over the hay and fasten with pig rings or wrap the ends of the cut wire to secure it in place. Place a handful of hay in the center for nesting material. Now you are ready to place the nest on the platform as shown in (Plan 21).

It is recommended that the nest be placed over water no less than three feet above the highest water level expected during the spring season. Also position the nest perpendicular to the prevailing winds in your area. This prevents nesting material from being blown out of the nest, but more importantly, it prevents the hen's scent from being spread over a large area possibly attracting a predator to the nest. A predator guard can be placed on the post. The nest should be secured to the platform with wire.

The nesting material should be replaced annually, and is best done in February while ice conditions permit easy access. The nest can be turned around at this time and if the hay is thin, some can be pushed in between the wire by use of a thin board. Usually by the third year all the hay in the nest will need to be replaced.

This information was provided by Charles Strouphar, Manager of the Pennsylvania Game Commission's Middle Creek Wildlife Management Area.

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